Marseille to L'Estaque

20/10/2015

Alas, that pesky sailing regatta is still following us, and we can't stay more than a night on the visitors pontoon in Marseille as they need the space, so we're off again. But we will definitely be back, as a mooring in the town centre is a perfect base for a proper visit...

Farewell, Marseille - à bientot!

L'Estaque is not far - although an hours motor, and they were very helpful over the phone, so we trucked out late-ish, at 11.10. Although a northerly wind is blowing and we're in a zone chock-a-block with commercial traffic, we are well protected so the journey was a smooth one.

Having been told we'd be on the visitor's quay, we had checked it's placement in the pilot, and were heading there (with the fly bridge depth sounder in the cupboard) when we spotted mad waving from the quay poiting us to a spot behind us. No problem, A hit reverse and we moored side on to an unmarked pontoon next to the slipway and haul-out cradle, where we were met by a kindly gentleman who was so impressed with the driving skills he insisted we must have a bow thruster. On asking what our draft is, advised that we had been pretty close to running aground - oops!

We thought we'd head out for lunch, but discovered we needed a beeper from the office, which was closed between 12 & 2pm, so it's lucky J had picked up a baguette before our departure from Marseille! 


With a(nother) mistral coming we knew we'd be here for a few days, as long as they had space, so we broke out our Time Out South of France guide - a gift when we first moved here 12 years ago, so perhaps time to get the newer edition - and started planning some alternative transport.


First we set out on foot to the Port de Corbières, a marina at the mouth of the Rove tunnel - the largest canal tunnel in the world housing a shipping canal used from 1927 until part of its roof collapsed in 1963.

It was a goodly stroll of 2.2 km, not through the prettiest countryside, and we couldn't go in the tunnel, so we did an about turn and set back off home.

 

A treat felt well deserved after such physical efforts (the like of which J feels a likely allergy coming on), so we picked up a chocolate chichi frégi to go (recipe here if you fancy blocking your arteries!):

Basically a humungous doghnut, the chocolate is optional (?!) - hand needed in the pic for scale - made to order. Small children in the queue were getting one each, but we shared about a third with a cuppa, and had a late supper with the rest for pudding - yummy!

The next day we had planned to take the train from l'Estaque to Martigues, and waited on the platform with tickets in hand, and dog on lead, accompanied by an SNCF emlpoyee. When the train eventually arrived we hopped on and stayed in the hallway part, to be informed by the conductor that we weren't allowed onboard with the dog unless she was wearing a muzzle. Not having a muzzle we had to get off at the next stop - Niolon - and hope it was a different conductor on the return train on 1h30 time.

Niolon is so pretty, with a tiny port dominated by a dive school and their boats, and stunning views of Marseille:

 

 

A dooer-upper?!

We were on time for the train, but were met by a nice controller who was also insisting that we descend at the next stop, and who stayed with us as the car was full of high school kids who needed protection from the hounds aggressive tongue poking! Photos taken of, and choochie-coos dispensed to the vicious beast, we got off at l'Estaque with the mental note that, unlike on the cote d'azur, around Marseille they do actually want Roxy muzzled. Poor girl!