Cassis to Marseille

19/10/2015

Cassis has a strict evacuation time, so we didn't delay, and were off by 10.30, giving way to a tripper boat whilst still in the confined port area, we pulled out into what looked like water level mist, but no... Smoke on the water!

We're aiming for La Pointe-Rouge, but having tried the phone number in the pilot a couple of times with no luck, J is forced to use the (hated) VHF to raise a response from the port - but still nada?! They could be on lunch break of course. Odd, but we decide to go for it, and pull in at the fuel quay at 12.45, with A tieing up while J hot-foots it to the capitainerie - the fuel guy has been very specific on the short duration of stay he'll allow us for not buying his product.

And short duration works, as they haven't a single space to offer us, and were caught with the nautical equivalent of their pants down - their VHF had been switched off! With a sailing regatta breezing through we were once again stymied in our planning, but they were helpful in suggesting alternatives, and we set off again with numbers to call.

Having been assured of a space in Marseille, the approach is both beautiful and confusing, as the entrance to the port is practically invisible until you get there. 

The modern structures somehow fit with the ancient originals, and we're looking forward to staying - yep, you guessed it, there's a mistral coming through, and by 14.25 we were moored up on the 'quai d'accueil' in the Old Port in Marseille.

Although works are underway to renovate the quay side and nearby road, we seem to be far enough away that the noise doesn't disturb, and even the passing ferries are so respectful of the speed limit that they leave little wake. The same cannot be said for the divers in their RIB, who set us off on a rock n roll ride which seemed endless.

There are a surprising number of English & Irish pubs at the quayside - even compared to Cannes - and we were directed to a park for the hound, where she found not only grass and greenery, but friends and an improvised swimming spot to boot. Finally she's happy!

Ile des Embiez to Cassis - via the Calanque d'en Vau

17/10/2015

10.00 start into a beautifully calm day, which is actually warm without the mistral blowing.

We overtook a tug towing a dredger - quite a rarity for us to be overtaking anyone, and it felt good!

Although the Calanques are past Cassis on our journey, the capitainarie had assured us a spot would be kept until 6pm, so we trundled past, excited to experience these natural wonders for the first time, pulling into the Calanque d'en Vau behind one of the notoriously frequent tripper boats.

Still, they tripped off before long, leaving us plenty of space to moor to one of the buoys outlining the authorised mooring zone by 12.30. The beach was surprisingly packed, until we remind ourselves it's the weekend and toasty for October, so it all starts to make sense.

We were shortly followed into the mooring by a speed boat called Elton, who dropped their anchor worryingly close to ours, and proceeded to cast a line, despite the obvious 'no fishing' signs. Not a language barrier issue, and to top it off, the fisher tipped a bucket of small, dead fish overboard on departure. Humans & fish - nil, Gulls - result!

After sarnies on the fly bridge, A launched the paddle board, before donning his wetsuit (Mr Rubber-rubber to his friends - sorry, but if it sits here long enough, J will name it; it even has a theme tune!) for a swim, boat hull inspection in the incredibly clear waters, and a bit of snorkeling. J doesn't yet have a wetsuit, and refused A's kind offer of a loan, so stood lookout against other visitors on the water - which included scullers, paddle boarders, divers and, of course, more tripper boats. Roxy literally paced the decks, ensuring all knew exactly where A was at all times.

And here's a wee challenge for y'all: how many nutters, I mean climbers, are in this photo?! Answers in comments, please, and the first to get it right wins a kiss from Roxy - you gotta come and get it, she doesn't deliver!

At 2.45 the sun had moved over and we were no longer warm, so we weighed anchor and retraced to Cassis, where we were asked to wait on the fuel quay for a port agent to accompany us to our spot; slight issue, as the fuel quay was occupied, and the occupant was unmanned, so we trod water for a while before our guide arrived, and led us to quite literally the tightest mooring maneuver required so far. Of course A aced it, and got a respectful thumbs up and bravo from the agent. Some later arrivals got disparaging 'oh-la-las' on their skills, with one needing a tow, and another simply needing a larger space. Useable mooring space size is inversely proportionate to one's driving skills, apparently.

All tied on at 3.30 we headed off into lovely Cassis, to find not one blade of grass openly accessible to dogs, and on asking a local dog owner for directions she took us to an alleyway with little grass, but a huge no dogs allowed sign! Oh dear, poor Roxy...

But Cassis does have the most beautifiul carousel EVER:

 

A bit of a downer, but we had a disastrous meal out at a restaurant run by an accomplished false advertiser, with a huge billboard offering all sorts of moules for 9.90€ per kilo - the sort of advertising to enchant J, who is an accomplished Moules-Frites tester, with years of experience behind her.

As it turned out, the small print said 'from' 9.90€, with marinière - the classic - at 15.90€, and the only choice at 9.90€ was simply steamed. Of the 'kilo' served - take your word for it, we hadn't brought the scales - about 40% of the shells were empty; they can fall out during cooking and be waiting in the delicious juice, except all J found in the juice were clumps of barnacles, and some sort of unidentifiable piece of sea scuzz... Minging.

They took the complaint on the chin, and we were not charged for the moules, but on departure our waitress asked if we had received satisfaction, and was surprised at our positive response, as "usually the director couldn't care less!". Hmmm, looks like we had a lucky escape - both with the bill (although 10€ a pint is Monaco pricing), and the lack of food poisoning!

The next day the weather remained beautifully clear, and we strolled back to check out Port-Miou,  and also observe a rock formation reminiscent (to J) of an Independence Day spaceship crash.

 

Although Cassis is famous for it's wine, somehow we forgot to buy any :-( Next time!!

Ile des Embiez - continued...

Tourists were thinner on the ground on Monday, despite the regular ferry service to Le Brusc even during low season, and we set off round the island on its 6km nature trail, although on Roxy's insistence we scrambled down to every beach, and up to the tower and last resting place of Paul Ricard, which he chose as the highest point on the island facing the sea, so we walked at least 7km that day, and when the heavens opened on the home straight, some of it was done at a run!

Follow me!

I believe this is called a sit in! With beach swag to boot!

The rock formations are genuinely interesting, kinda wish we'd listened in geography class!

We topped our morning off with lunch Chez Charles, and a visit to the Domaine Ile des Embiez boutique where, although we were too late for their rosé wine special offer, we did enjoy a tasting and rosé master class - although the gentleman spoke faster than a machine gun fires so it was tricky to keep up - and bought a bottle or two of their Côtes de Provence, bien sure!.  

Tuesday involved a good walk to tire out the hound before locking her up on the boat and heading to the Oceanographic institute & aquarium up on the hill. The institute, now presided over by M Ricard's granddaughter, does much that cannot be visited by the general public, but the small museum and aquariums are still worth a visit, and in the summer they also run kids workshops to raise awareness of the human effect on the oceans and teach littl'uns the best ways to treat the sea.

On Wednesday the Mistral blew a hoolie all night, so although tired, we walked round the north eastern point of the island watching the Le Brusc ferry thrown all over the shop from behind the protection of a navigation light tower, and back home via the island vineyards for lunch and a nap. 

Say what?! I can't hear you through the wind.

We'll be hiding from what is coming for a good few days...

Sanary-sur-Mer to Ile des Embiez

11/10/2015

10.30 engines start
10.45 fenders in
11.00 fenders out
11.15 moored on the fuel quay on Ile des Embiez, before moving over to our spot
11.30 moored up with help from a neighbour.

Not our longest trip ;-) 

Ile des Embiez is an island bought and developed by Paul Ricard (1909 - 1997), the Marseillais entrepreneur who created the Ricard pastis, making it a nature reserve and 'responsible tourism' retreat and site of M Ricard's Oceanographic Institute and aquarium, where vehicles are strictly limited, with those working to maintain the island all electric, and dogs are allowed - on the lead.

J's choice - an electric Moke-a-like!

Men need more boot space from their vehicle, aparently!

Les Embiez was the second of Paul Ricard's two private islands, and although it is unclear when the installation took place, a comprehensive photographic eulogy of his life surrounds the port, and includes effusive praise from his employees and collaborators whom he engaged to develop the island in the most environmentally friendly way. Respect is due to this artist, industrialist, and environmental campaigner who showed how he valued those around him and our planet, behaving unlike any modern millionnaire we have met on the Cote d'Azur. 

"I never wanted to imitate anyone, I worked for the happiness of men and for quality of life"

Quay neighbours had disturbed this guy from his sleeping hole

A beautiful day, we hopped straight onto the petit train for an island tour, unfortunately without a camera, but Roxy was encouraged to join and we set off with a full complement of passengers.The train driver used to be a lumberjack & driver on another Ricard property, but his (French only) commentary and anecdotes were hilarious. 

With serious weather approaching it didn't take long to decide we'd huddle here on the island and explore all it had to offer - this time with a camera!

St Mandrier to Sanary sur Mer

10/10/2015

We got an early start this morning, and motored out right into weekend traffic, driving into the sun made it tricky to see the other boaters, so it was a relief to 'turn a corner' and follow the coastline. Although the weather has cooled off, it was a gorgeous day, clear blue skies and just the sort of flat calm J loves, with not a breath of wind.

Roxy taking on the role of look out!

Having rung ahead, we went straight to our berth right in the town centre, and moored easily with the help of a neighbour, whilst being grilled incessantly by a passerby who was incredibly knowlegeable about trawler yachts, but to whom the C-Kip was a new sighting.

Although we stepped off out quay and right into town, the same couldnot be said for the capitainerie and sanitaires,which were a good stroll away, although once there we got a full batch of town info for tourists, and (empty) sweet tins with info about an underwater trail, which turned out to be closed out of season.

Sanary-sur-Mer takes its fishing fleet seriously, and each of the working fishing boats has its own stall on the quay to sell their catch, as well as supplying the local restaurants, where a delicious 'plat du jour' featured prawns, red mullet and swordfish.

 

Yum!

They also love their heritage collection of 'pointu' boats, with the oldest featuring details of their launch dates, construction, restauration and ownership.

1958 Lou Pelican

The food market was in situ on both days, and we did a full stock up of fruit and veg at excellent market prices - no rounding down the centimes here because you are getting a good deal.

Every lamp post and available bit of wall space throughout town featured a picture from a protrait expo featuring 1000 pieces by 300 photographers of many nationalities (but for which cannot be included a useful link as sadly Sanary-sur-Mer's website needs some serious attention).

The old town has boutiques of all shapes and sizes, with many artist caves, and all imaginable provençal produce, and was open and thriving as we strolled through - although this is another town without a blade of grass to be found for the hound. Interesting glitch - the town/church clock strikes on every hour between 8am and 10 pm, twice!